I could not tell you the last time I dove into one of those crashing waves but not before it hit me like I remembered when I was a child. Surrounded by blue and white and there is sand between everything. You are push and pull and struggle and let go and this is why I love the ocean. I laughed the first time one of those waves came crashing down on me and then I braced myself for the next until finally I just dove below it and let that water carry over me.
Today I am grateful for the ocean, how it teaches me.